Home -=| The Cars |=- Image Gallery Photoshoots Rusty's MR2 Cammy's MR2 Eugene's RSX Caleb's 914 Rusty's Truck -=| Xmods |=- Motors Magnet Swap Motor Timing Drivetrain Tire Taping Maintenance Servo Balancing The Team GuySmily Osiris Chaos Green Saber CoRnDoG Videos Drifting Stage 2 Hosted Mouse Links MR2OC Forums Xbox-Scene XS-Forums Got Apex? LSDiodes Masashi Online Contact Info Hosted by 1&1 News Login

Motor Timing Changing the timing on your motor has a drastic effect on its performance. Generally the tradeoff seems to be more rpms for slightly less torque as you advance timing, but less power in reverse. This is a good quick way to tune your motor. [This tutorial still needs to be cleaned up and edited. Please be wary of errors, and use your common sense.] Required materials: Motor (removed from car) Small flathead screwdriver or similar tool (for prying) Small pliers (needlenose works best) Step one: Pry the tabs up. There are two metal tabs that hold the end bell (plastic end of the motor) down. Pry the tabs up carefully. A small flathead screwdriver is probably the easiest tool to use, but it's possible to do with other small, sharp tools. It's very easy to slip and stab a hole through your hand, so work carefully. Prying up a motor tab. Step two: Remove the endbell. On the bottom of the motor (opposite the wires), wedge your screwdriver/tool between the can (metal) and the endbell (plastic) and twist and pry to open up just a crack between the two parts of the motor. Now flip the motor over, and look for a crack going along the top of the endbell. Put the screwdriver into the crack and twist and pry to get the top side loose. Notice that a plastic part stays stuck to the can on top. Repeat for the bottom and top a few times, and even the edges if you think it is necessary. Hold the endbell by the sides, and the motor can, and pull them straight apart. Prying off the bottom of the endbell. Prying off the top of the endbell. The endbell removed from the can. Step three: Move the brushes. The brushes of the magnet are the parts coming from the left-over piece of plastic to the center of the motor. These are the most fragile part of the motor, and you must be careful not to (permanently) bend them or break them. Press against the top (outside) part of the plastic and bend the whole thing up so that the brushes become parallel to the can. The insides of the motor. The thin strips of metal with the blocks touching the middle are the brushes. The brushes bent parallel to the can. Step four: Adjust the timing. In the center of the motor, there is a white plastic part with three metal tabs. This part is called the commutator. Take your pliers and grasp the commutator, and hold the pinion gear (the gear outside the motor). What you are going to do is spin the commutator counterclockwise to advance the timing, while holding the pinion gear still. Be careful not to break the connections between the coils of wire and the commutator tabs. Normal timing (0°) on a motor. Advanced-timed motor. This is around the mid-range for timing. Protractor to help measure timing. 40° is a relatively high timing difference. Step five: Test and tune. Put the motor back together: Fold the brushes back down (carefully), put the end bell back on, and you're set for testing - no need to fold the can tabs until you're totally finished. Test the motor out in your car, and see how different it is. Play with the adjustments and figure out what feels best.